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Tips and Advice About Fabric: Glossary: Silk Fabrics and Weaves
Glossary: Silk Fabrics and Weaves

Chiffon: is transparent soft and light silk. Can also be woven of cotton or man-made fibers.

Georgette: sheer crepe silk, heavier than chiffon and with a crinkle surface.

Organza: is similar to cotton organdy except it is made with silk and is transparent.

Doupioni: (pronounced: dupe-e-on) is reeled from double cocoons nested together. The threads are uneven and irregular. Italian Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese Doupioni and Indian Doupioni. Doupioni is also seen in man-made fibers such as polyester, acetate and referred to as Doupionini. Silk Doupioni is most often found in men’s and women’s fine suits and also dresses in lighter weight silk Doupioni.

Brocade: is a jacquard weave with an embossed effect and contrasting surfaces. Can also be woven with synthetic or man-made fibers.

Silk Satin:
is a satin weave with a plain back. It has a smooth glossy look and feel.

China silk: is a plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the "hand" or touch that many people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from light, used for linings and many "washable silks" with the wrinkled look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.

Silk Shantung: is a dupionni type of silk that comes from the Shantung Prov. of China.

Silk Broadcloth: is a plain weave silk in various weights; crisper than china silk. Often used in shirting.

Silk Linen: has a nubby yarn in a plain weave. Weights range from light to heavy. It is different from Dupion in that the nubby runs both lengthwise and crosswise. The look of linen with the characteristics of linen.

Tussah Silk (tussah means wild) / Raw Silk: is a plain weave silk fabric from "wild" silk worms. It has irregular thick and thin yarns creating uneven surface and color. Wild silkworms feed on leaves other than mulberry leaves.Tussah silk is similar to shantung, with silk from the wild. Color is often uneven; usually referred to as "raw" silk.

Charmeuse: is a satin weave silk with a crepe back sometimes called crepe backed satin.

Silk is also available in other weaves such as velvet and corduroy.

Canton Crepe: is a soft crepe woven fabric with small crosswise ribs. Similar to crepe de chine but heavier.

Faille: soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain ribbon. Slightly glossy.

Matelasse: has raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with the appearance of puckered or quilted.

Peau de Soie: is a stout, soft silk with fine cross ribs. Looks slightly corded. Also called paduasoy.

Pongee: is a plain woven, thin, naturally tan fabric that has a rough weave effect.

Poult de siue: is sometimes called faille taffeta. It has heavy cross ribs.


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